Category Archives: Travel

Along the Atlanta BeltLine

The Saturday of my stay in Atlanta, my friend Connie and I walked a portion of the Atlanta BeltLine.  Connie is among my parents’ most devoted neighbors.  She’s there to help, as needed, in any way.  She’s a nurse, and our family has relied on her numerous times for medical advice and assistance.  When I thank her for all that she does, she says simply, “I love your parents.  They’re family.”  And she means it.  I’ve come to think of Connie very much like a sister.  She also loves Atlanta, and she can be counted on to know what’s worth seeing and doing at the moment.  With Connie, I catch up quickly on the life of my old home town.

The BeltLine is a work in progress, the ongoing redevelopment of a former rail line that circles the city’s core in a  twenty-two mile loop.   It includes a wide paved path for walking, biking and running, along with other trails and parks branching off from the main circuit.  It’s bringing revitalization and the excitement that comes with it to in-town areas that had tended toward the derelict and run-down.  When finished, it will link up forty-five Atlanta neighborhoods.  It’s already possible to walk from Virginia-Highland to the Carter Center.  The BeltLine is an appealing place to get some air and exercise, to walk the dog, and to see city landmarks from unique perspectives.

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A section of the mid-town skyline, from the BeltLine.

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A view of the Ponce City Market, currently in development, from Paris on Ponce & Pop Marché, a vast collection of cool boutiques.  The enormous City Market building began its life as a Sears & Roebuck store in 1926.  In the 1990s it functioned as City Hall East, but has now sat vacant for years.

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One of many BeltLine oddities:  medieval-style fencing of braided sticks, awkwardly meandering, for no apparent reason, across a desolate hill.
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The Masquerade, a live music venue, seen from the back.  I remember it as a popular restaurant and bar called the Excelsior Mill, so named because the building was constructed as a factory to produce excelsior, a stuffing and packing material that predates foam rubber.


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An old water tower seems to perch precariously atop this apartment building.
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Public art is common along the BeltLine.


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An entrance to the Eastside Trail is near Grady High, my alma mater.  In front of the school is its football stadium, renamed in 2011 for Coach Henderson, who was on his way to becoming a local legend during my Grady years. 

In Atlanta, to be a Daughter

 

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The Atlanta skyline, from the MARTA train, March 21.

Last Thursday I did something I hadn’t done in nine years:  I flew to Atlanta, alone, to visit my parents.  Ever since my daughter was born, she has been my constant travel companion.  Even as a baby she was good company when we flew together. The joy she found in the adventure of airplane travel almost made up for the difficulties of managing the clumsy baby seat and all the various gear she required.  As she got older she became a great help, as she has a natural bent for understanding automatic ticketing machines. With her assistance, I learned to buy and reload a MARTA Breeze card and to make my way through the stations.  It felt strange to be leaving town without her.

The last time I went to Atlanta by myself, Mama had been very sick.  This time, it was Daddy.  In February he underwent a serious surgery that left him in a fragile state.  Typically healthy, hearty and appearing far younger than his years, time was making sudden and unwelcome inroads.  Fortunately, Mama was feeling pretty well.  Her usual chronic health concerns were manageable, and Daddy’s illness spurred her into action.  She had recently had cataract surgery, which improved her vision and gave her confidence to drive again (although only to familiar, nearby places–she wasn’t about to attempt I-85).  It had been over twenty years since she had regularly set foot in a grocery store, because Daddy had done nearly all the shopping and errand-running.

My parents are blessed to have a strong caring network of neighbors and church friends, so my immediate presence hadn’t been an absolute requirement.  I can’t say how grateful I am to the many who step in so graciously to help.  While I offered to fly down at any time, I sensed that Mama preferred I wait until Daddy was feeling better and regaining some of his lost weight. That way he could better enjoy my visit, and I wouldn’t be as alarmed at his appearance.

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Another view from the train, showing the gold dome of the Capitol between the twin “Sloppy” Floyd Towers.  The cream-colored tower to the left is City Hall, which dates from 1930.

I tend to think my family in Virginia can’t get through the mornings without me.  Who will make sure our daughter is really, truly awake and up in the pre-dawn darkness?  Who’ll make her breakfast and lunch?  Who’ll walk Kiko?  I knew they’d be fine in the evenings.  While there would be no cooking, they’d have no trouble eating.  My husband would bring home Chipotle, Chinese or Thai.  They’re capable of opening cans, jars, and boiling pasta.  Those mornings, though, they’d be rough.  Then it hit me.  So what if the mornings are rough? That just means they’ll appreciate me all the more once I return.

So I went, and I’m glad I did.  I’ll go back, too, with more frequency.  As those of us of a certain age already know or are coming to realize (at least those lucky enough to have our parents still with us), sometimes the duties and rewards of daughterhood take priority over those of motherhood.

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The back of the High Museum of Art, much expanded since I worked there in the 80s.

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    The High Museum with the Promenade building in the background.

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The Four Seasons Hotel, as seen from the Arts Center Station.

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I was very glad not to see any snow.  While the weather was cooler than I had hoped, it was sunny, and there were real signs of spring, such as this dandelion in the mulch.  There are no dandelions yet in northern Virginia.

A Pescadero Classic: Duarte’s Tavern

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Our tour along the northern California coast ended on a festive note with dinner at Duarte’s Tavern, a Pescadero landmark and true American classic.  Duarte’s dates from 1894, when Frank Duarte, an immigrant from Portugal, bought the tavern and began selling whisky from a barrel.  The spot proved popular with local fishermen, whalers and farmers.  While Prohibition was a setback, the original bar survived intact, and in the 1930s the Duarte family expanded the business to include food service (sandwiches, ice cream and pies).  They also ran a barbershop on the premises.  While the barber chairs have disappeared, the plain, unassuming décor has changed very little, which, depending upon your point of view, contributes to the place’s simple charm (as I see it), or its lack thereof.  For the past several decades, Duarte’s has been famous for its flavorful soups, fresh fish, and delicious pies. The fourth generation of the family now runs the restaurant.

At the recommendation of our friends, who are Duarte’s regulars, we began with a combination of the two house specialty soups, cream of green chile and cream of artichoke.  Served with fresh sourdough bread, it was as tasty as they had said it would be.  The locally caught sole was just as described: absolutely fresh and simply prepared.  I only wish I’d been able to sample the Crab Cioppino.  My one Bay Area food regret is not tasting this regional specialty, a hearty seafood stew.  Next time.

No one missed out on Duarte’s most famous pie, however.  Our friends had spoken highly of the olallieberry pie.  You East Coasters might well ask What?– just  as I did.  Surely that’s a made-up word.  It sounds like something Dr. Seuss’s Cat in the Hat would serve up on that cold, rainy day.  Perhaps in an early draft of Edward Lear’s The Owl and the Pussycat, the happy couple dined on slices of olallieberry pie? (for which the runcible spoon would be well-suited.)

But no.  Olallieberry is a real word referring to a real berry, although one of fairly recent origin.  Essentially, it’s a locally grown blackberry-raspberry hybrid, a cross that was developed by way of the loganberry and youngberry,  (I had no idea my knowledge of berries was so rudimentary).  Olallie, interestingly, is a Pacific Northwest Native American word for berry.  At our table that day, all seven in our party ordered the olallieberry pie.  No one was disappointed.

When we return to California in a few years, we’ll make sure to seek out our good friends again. I’ll even give them more than a couple of day’s notice of our impending arrival.  And when we drive along the coast (next time we’ll venture farther south, to Monterey and Carmel), we’ll stop by Duarte’s.  I feel sure it will still be there.   Maybe the fifth generation of the family will be running the place by then.  On second thought, no.  We won’t wait that long.

In Pescadero: Harley Farms Goat Dairy

My final California posts have been much delayed.  That most tiresome and expected of reasons has kept me away from the blog for almost two weeks:  our old PC moved on to its greater reward.  It had been ailing for a while, and its misery was contagious.  Closing or opening a document had become a lengthy, frustrating process.  Our home office often resounded with groans, moans and furious mutterings as one of us sat staring beseechingly at an endlessly spinning “loading” symbol.  (Loading, loading, always loading, never loading.)  Once the PC had given up the ghost, of course, there followed the dreaded prospect of replacing it.  Fortunately, that falls under my husband’s purview, and he’s still dealing with the complex transition from old to new.  What would I do if I were single?

Now, a second-to-last look at our time in northern California.

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Because we toured the coast with local friends, we had the chance to visit some unique places we wouldn’t have discovered on our own.  One such spot, a favorite of our friends, is Harley Farms, a farm-to-table goat dairy in the rural seaside community of Pescadero.  This goat farm has a funky, unpretentious elegance and a chic sense of style.   It’s a friendly, family-run operation in an inviting setting of thoughtfully restored old farm buildings.  Two hundred furry, feisty Alpine goats munch and lounge happily in grassy pastures bordered by gardens and sheltered by rolling hills.  Llamas stand guard, exercising particular vigilance over the kids.  (Is anything cuter than a baby goat?  Maybe only a Shiba Inu puppy.)  The goats’ milk is processed on site into an array of award-winning cheeses.  These include crumbly feta, creamy chevre topped beautifully with edible flowers, as well as the softer consistency fromage blanc and ricotta cheeses.

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In the cozy restored barn that houses the shop, cheeses may be sampled and purchased.  Prior to our visit, while I had no objection to goat cheese, I wasn’t an outspoken fan. Harley Farms changed that.  After nibbling on a wide range of samples, we left with three tasty varieties.  My favorite may be the Monet chevre, seasoned with herbes de Provence.  The lavender and honey chevre runs a close second.  Also available in the shop are soaps, lotions and other bath and body products, all made with the milk of Harley goats.  Additionally, the farm produces nine lovely colors of durable, environmentally friendly FarmPaint. The barn’s hayloft, with its unique fir table that seats twenty-two, serves as a truly atmospheric event space.  Looking for a wedding venue like no other?  Harley Farms will handle all the details.

A goat farm had not been on our list of northern California must-sees.  But thanks to our friends, it is now.

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Some of the Harley nanny goats.  One appears to be kneeling in prayer.

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A guard llama eyes us warily.

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An immense eucalyptus tree shades the milk processors.

An Afternoon in Half-Moon Bay

To continue our tour of the northern California coast, we met up with good friends who had settled in Palo Alto to raise their family.  Although we’d kept in touch through Christmas cards, it had been perhaps seventeen years since I’d seen my former housemate Laura, and probably twenty since I’d seen her husband.  Laura and I became fast friends when we lived on the same small gray corridor of the New Graduate College in Princeton.  Together with our buddy and hallmate Ben, we could face anything the weird world of ivy-league graduate study could throw at us.  We considered ourselves a formidable trio.  And, when we weren’t working hard, we sure had fun.

When Laura completed her master’s degree and landed a job at Bell Labs, she stayed in Princeton and we rented a funny little blue house on Humbert Street near the cemetary.  More accurately, Laura rented it, and I provided her with pocket change.  I was still a poor student, and she graciously let me share the house, accepting as payment no more than the fractional amount my stipend would allow.  When our landlord sold that house, we moved across the borough to the lower level of a really lovely Victorian home on Murray Place.  I was with Laura at a Grad School cookout when we met two new engineering students, one of whom would later become my husband.  Our Murray Place house was conveniently near the E-Quad, where H spent his days in the lab.  He often parked on our street, which made it easy for me to plan to run into him by accident.  Laura was from New Jersey, with lots of family nearby.  On many Thanksgivings, Super Bowl Sundays and various holidays when I couldn’t get back to Atlanta, they welcomed me as one of their own.

With such a foundation of shared history, a couple of decades is nothing.  We picked up easily, and the years fell away.  We met the children we had watched grow up in photographs.  Laura’s son is sixteen, her daughter fourteen, with D right in the middle at fifteen.  The kids had little trouble breaking the ice; it was almost as if they were old friends, as well.  The same was true when D had the chance, several years ago, to meet Ben’s kids.

One of our coastal convoy’s first stops was Half Moon Bay, about thirty minutes south of San Francisco.  This quaint town has gained worldwide renown for its proximity to the phenomenal surfing spot known as Mavericks.  Until the 1990s, the enormous waves that develop under certain weather conditions were a closely kept local secret.  Since then, though, the word has been out, and elite surfers cross the globe to catch the waves, prove themselves (and risk their lives) at Half Moon Bay.

Today, as I write, the conditions for those near-legendary waves are ideal.  Twenty-four of the world’s top surfers, from as far away as Australia, South Africa and Brazil, are gathered at Half Moon Bay for the Mavericks Invitational surfing competition.   Waves as high as forty-five feet are forecasted.  Crowds have flocked to witness the action at waterfront hotels and restaurants.  No one is allowed to observe from the beach, however, due to the unpredictable nature of the waves.  Several years ago, a dozen spectators at Mavericks were injured by a rogue wave, an ever-present danger along this section of the coast.

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In this Dec. 30 view of Half Moon Bay, looking toward the harbor,
the waters are deceptively calm.


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The coast is rocky,


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and the bluffs are steep.  Sudden strong waves reared up periodically, seemingly out of nowhere, even on the day of our visit, when no surfers were out.


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A view along Main Street.


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The town’s historic Methodist Episcopal Church.


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Another Main Street view.  Flanked by mountains and the sea, lush with picturesque foliage, Half Moon Bay is one of those charming California towns that I had suspected existed only on movie lots.

A San Francisco Treat

For over twenty years now, my husband had been saying, “Sometime we need to go out to California.”  As a near-penniless grad student, he had given a talk at a conference in Monterey.  He had flown to San Francisco, where he managed to find an affordable motel (read seedy, verging on squalid) for the two days before his university per diem kicked in.  He became smitten with the city and the dramatic rocky west coast.  He’s been wanting to return ever since.  Yet the time was never quite right, and I wasn’t particularly enthusiastic.  Despite glowing reviews from him and several native and transplanted California friends, my stubborn, wrong-headed vision of the state persisted: thousands of miles of disaster-prone L.A. sprawl and superficiality.  My bias was no doubt influenced by my mother’s attitude.  In her opinion, California (unlike Europe, somehow), was simply too far away to merit serious consideration.  While I was growing up, she harbored a vague dread that one day, school, a job, or a boy would lure me to the opposite end of the country.  Now that my daughter is in high school, I can even more fully appreciate this concern.
One thing led to another, though, and we reached a family decision to head to the bay area this past winter break.  And I have to admit, I should have paid attention earlier to all those fans of northern California.   I understand now.  It’s every bit as good as they say. Maybe even a little bit better, because the weather was so gorgeous. We had prepared for fog, drizzle, gray skies and a damp chill in the air. Instead, we found sunshine, bright blue skies and afternoon temperatures in the mid-60s. With its palm trees, live oaks, cypresses, huge eucalyptus trees and lush flowers, the city has a tropical feel that, for me, at least, was completely unexpected.  It was a welcome break from the icy Virginia December we had left behind.

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The 19th-century Italianate tower of the Ferry Building sits sentinel on the beautifully reconfigured Embarcadero, (former site of the 1960s-era Embarcadero Freeway that collapsed during the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake.)
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A row of Victorian homes, delicately decorated and painted.
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Portico of the James C. Flood mansion in Nob Hill.  Built in 1886,
it’s one of few buildings to survive the 1906 earthquake and fire.

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A peaceful view along the waterfront, somewhere between
Fisherman’s Wharf & Ghirardelli Square.

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The Marina, with the Golden Gate Bridge in the background.
Nearby is Crissy Field, a must-see spot for my husband.  It’s where windsurfers gather when weather permits.

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On my list of sights was the monumental Palace of Fine Arts,
designed by Bernard Maybeck for the Panama-Pacific Exhibition in 1915.  It was rebuilt of permanent materials in the 1960s.

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A close-up view of the Palace of Fine Arts.

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A towering Victorian mansion on Alamo Square.

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Perhaps the most familiar row of Victorians in San Francisco, the
six “Painted Ladies” on Steiner Street across from Alamo Square.

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The less familiar, but just as beautifully painted sisters in the lower block of Steiner Street.
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Hibiscus adorns the entry of an Alamo Square home.
I loved the city’s tropical plantings.
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With Muni passes, we sampled the city’s many forms of public transportation. Vintage streetcars, like this one on Market Street, are better enjoyed from the outside, as they spend most of their time stopped. Best to catch a bus if you’re in a hurry.

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Cable cars offer a lively ride.  We learned to avoid the long tourist lines and hop on in the middle of the intersection. Our daughter was thrilled when she was assigned an outside perch as we sailed down one of the city’s steep, signature hills.

Summer’s Parting Shot, and a Friendship for the Ages

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Until the beginning of this week, the weather has been so warm here that I was getting lulled into thinking it was still summer. While I’d prefer that it not be 85 degrees in October, the ongoing heat suggested that time was standing still.  Had we finally found that “Hold” button I’m always wishing for?  It almost seemed so.

But the world must be spinning, and moving in its orbit.  Monday’s rain ushered in more seasonable temperatures.  It triggered the pine straw showers that turn our driveway and the hill beside it golden-red every October.  We had one beautiful, crisp fall day.  Yesterday brought cold, insistent rain, and it continues today.  It’s time to search out my gloves and the rest of my warmer dog-walking gear.  But I need one last look at summer.

A bit of summer’s essence is preserved in the photo above.  It shows our daughter and two friends on stand up paddle boards this August.  It was just before sunset, the air was unusually balmy, and Cape Cod Bay was calm and smooth.  It was toward the end of a very special day, when we had a visit with friends from home.  This was an unusual event.  We don’t typically see Virginia friends in Massachusetts.  Our Cape friends and our home friends have, until now, remained completely separate; they inhabit two very different worlds.

But this year, our neighbors decided to vacation in Plymouth.  This is the family with whom we often spend Thanksgiving.  We met them when D and their younger daughter began Kindergarten together.  The girls have been close ever since.  Their friendship is not of the on-again, off-again type.  It’s not stained by gossip, catty commentary, competition or envy.  They never discussed being “best friends.”  It’s a friendship that doesn’t require numerical ranking or constant rebooting.  The two girls are not and needn’t be exactly alike.  But they seem to have a genuine regard and respect for one another, and a true appreciation for their differences.  They have a rare thing going. This kind of comfortable companionship doesn’t happen often.  If we’re lucky enough to find it, we need to hold onto it.

All during elementary school, the girls had a standing Tuesday playdate.  It’s been a pleasure to watch them together through the years.  I would peek in as they made up games in the playroom, watch from the window as they dashed around the yard in the sprinkler or performed acrobatics on our rope swing.  They were nearly always laughing, and their friendship struck me as familiar.  I could see me with my childhood friend Katie, with whom the most mundane activity could be fun.  She and I shared a similar bond, and it’s one that has endured.  I expect that, in years to come, D and her friend will eagerly catch up with one another during winter breaks from college.  I’d be very surprised if, thirty years from now, they’re not exchanging Christmas cards (or whatever kind of virtual correspondence has taken their place by then).

The older daughter is now a high school senior.  Her interest in several New England colleges prompted the family vacation in Plymouth.  The ideal elder sister, she is patient, encouraging, grounded and wise.  She has never been above socializing with her sister’s younger circle.  My daughter considers her a good friend and trusted advisor. I find it reassuring to know that the three girls are all, for this one year, in high school together.

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The two photos above show the friends at our local Memorial Day carnival in 2008. When our girls were in elementary school, this event was an annual tradition, not to be missed.

These kind and thoughtful sisters, as would be expected, embody the same values as their  mother and father.  Once you’re a parent, your child largely determines your friends.  The parents of your child’s friends become the people with whom you spend time, like it or not.  Our daughter chose well for us;  we are very fortunate.  H and I enjoy a real sense of camaraderie with the mother and father and with their two girls.  It was a welcome turn of events when it happened that our families would be in the same area at the same time for our summer vacations.

The day that our friends were arriving in Truro, we were filled with anticipation.  Text updates told us they were getting closer.  When they pulled into the shell-paved parking lot, we were crossing the green to meet them.  D was excited to show her friends her favorite summer place.  We knew the whole family would appreciate the bay and its charms.  They wouldn’t be put off by the seaweed.  They’d find the odd marine life amusing.  They wouldn’t wonder why we didn’t opt for more luxurious housing.  They would enjoy Provincetown’s beauty as well as its eccentricities and humor.  The day would be relaxing, easy and fun.

And it was.  It was a lovely day.  There was time to sit back in beach chairs on the flats during an impressively low tide.  Time for the girls to create a big moated sand castle.  Time to watch the water reclaim it and most of the beach.  After an early dinner at the Lobster Pot, with no crowd and no wait, we wandered among Ptown’s unique sights.  We returned as sunset approached so D and her friends could try out the SUP boards.  The water was gloriously tranquil.  The typical chill of the evening never descended.  We talked, laughed and watched our girls floating happily on the smooth, glassy bay.

The photo of my daughter and her friends on the water is my parting  summer shot.  It captures the luxurious ease and the rhythm of summer.  And it speaks of the promise of friendship to transcend the seasons and the years.

The Kids are All Right

October’s here, and my husband and I are a month into our new roles as parents of a high schooler.  There’s a much earlier schedule (alarms begin going off at 5:20 AM at our house), our daughter is far busier with schoolwork, extracurriculars  and social stuff (Homecoming, and all that entails, is this weekend).  The parenting dance feels trickier than ever:  when to intervene or not, step in, step back, say yes, say no, when to shut up and let life takes its course.  Any advice or commentary we offer must be phrased with great delicacy and neutrality.   Increasingly, words intended as encouragement or light-hearted comedy are interpreted negatively.  In certain ways the choreography is new.  But some of the moves are familiar, as I realized this summer, vacationing with our fifteen-month old nephew.  Watching him prompted memories of my daughter at his age, and I noticed parallels in parenting a toddler and a teen.

 

Last year I wrote about how H’s sister and her husband brought their new baby, then three months old, to Cape Cod (see Our Summer Village on the Cape, September 2012).  I marveled at their bravery in attempting a vacation at this stage of their child’s life. H and I found it too stressful to venture far from home during our daughter’s first two years.   Last August, D’s new cousin was a cuddly, portable bundle.  He needed everything done for him, but he lacked the power of locomotion.  He stayed where he was placed.  I wondered what even greater reserves of parental courage and vigilance would be required a year later, when their son would be a new walker.

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Our nephew, at thirteen months, in May.
In August, he rarely paused long enough to be photographed.

This past summer, our nephew took his walking very seriously indeed.  He was constantly on the move, always working on his form.  The shifting sand and the piles of dried seaweed threw him for a loop.  He soldiered on, carefully and deliberately, but he made it clear that he wasn’t about to go it alone.  At the least hint of unsteadiness, he thrust out a hand and emitted an impatient squawk, his way of demanding that Mama or Daddy hasten to his side.  He would accept help from Grandma and Grandpa, but remained wary of H, D and me.  We hadn’t yet put in enough hours to earn his trust, and I could respect him for that. He was equally quick to indicate when assistance was unwelcome.  The worst offense was to pick him up without permission.  This was grounds for loud and vigorous protest.

When the baby was happy, he was very happy.  He smiled, giggled, clapped his hands gently and soundlessly, and, when asked, performed his signature move, the subtlest of stationary dances, a barely perceptible, and very funny, shifting of his hips. When he was touchy, he was very touchy.  Often his fiery irritability had no explanation. Luckily for him, whether glad or mad, he was awfully cute, a sweet-faced, doll-sized figure in a floppy sun hat and long shorts.

Considering that D’s cousin negotiated the beach with the utmost care, I was at first surprised to see that hard surfaces inspired in him a devil-may-care attitude.  Once his little foot touched a sidewalk or a gravelly parking lot, if given the chance, he was likely to break into a wild run.  He looked like a tiny fugitive attempting a last-ditch effort at freedom.  These feats of daring frequently ended badly, in tumbles, scrapes and anguished screams.

Then it began to come back to me:  our daughter behaved similarly when she was about his age.  On soft, unthreatening grass, she walked with unhurried ease.  But should she discover a patch of rocky, ill-paved concrete, that’s when she’d tear off in a desperate sprint.  She was careful under relatively safe circumstances, yet often reckless when there was a hint of danger.  When I hosted the baby playgroup for an Easter egg hunt at our new home, I looked forward to seeing the children roaming happily on the big front lawn.  But D and her friends couldn’t care less about the nice grass or the colorful eggs hidden there.  It seemed they had decided unanimously that the only game in town was scrambling up and down the rough concrete stairs off the back porch.  Up and down, over and over, while we mothers hovered anxiously, trying to focus their attention elsewhere, to no avail.

During D’s toddler years I often lamented her frequent instances of contrariness.  If I really wanted her to do a certain thing, she was likely to put all her effort into doing the opposite thing.  It seemed like God’s joke on parents.  Of course, he knows how we feel.  In that paradise garden he lovingly created for us, there were boundless delicacies and only a single prohibition.  We know how that went.

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D and friends, at about sixteen months old, on April 14, 2000.  Safety concerns led my husband to block off the top of the stairs with a plywood board; we entered the porch via a ramp installed by the previous owner. The playgroup still insisted on climbing up and down these ugly stairs to nowhere.  The steps, along with our old porch, are long gone.

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Last year at the Cape I could envision D and her new cousin, some day, hand in hand, an adorable sight as they headed down to the bay.  I had hoped it would happen this summer, but that was premature.  Our nephew wasn’t ready to go exploring without his parents at arm’s reach (except when he was racing across the pavement).  I had almost forgotten children’s insistence on their own schedules, their own agendas. They won’t be rushed, and they have their own distinct personalities, no matter how young.

Looking back on the early years with our daughter, I see that I wanted her to be a small, improved copy of me, with all my likes and dislikes, yet lacking my faults and weaknesses.  There were times when I had counted on a different developmental pace for D.  I remember reading to her when she was in her second year.  I expected her to soak up enthusiastically the nuances of plot and  illustration I pointed out to her, but she wasn’t impressed with such details.  She just wanted to get on with it, and she demanded insistently:  Turn page!  Turn page!  If I didn’t do so, she would grab the page roughly and turn it herself.  The majority of her picture books from this era are ripped and fragmentary.  When D wasn’t quite three, we spent a weekend in Princeton, and I had visions of her eyes widening at the beauty and elegance of the collegiate Gothic architecture.  But she rarely looked up; all she wanted to do was draw in the dirt with a stick. My husband recognized the absurdity of my expectations, but he had his own.  He was disappointed when his daughter showed no interest in advanced math or engineering concepts at two and a half.

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 D in June 2000, at  eighteen months, free to turn these unrippable cardboard pages at her own pace.

Watching my sister- and brother-in-law cope with the  toddler stage of their son’s life, I remember how H and I, too, had to learn when to lend our daughter a hand, and when to let her go.  Sometimes we had to let her run, even if it was across hard pavement. As her little cousin roves farther and faster on his own two little feet, our daughter ventures farther and more frequently from us, her parents.  This year on the Cape, she was among the crowd of teenagers that wanders the grounds of our cottage complex.  She rode the bus into Ptown with her friends.  She stayed out later than ever at night with the group, talking and laughing on the green.  Her irritability, like that of her baby cousin, may be fierce, sudden, and without explanation.  Now, with school and all its related activities under way, H and I might define our primary parental obligation as that of the chauffeur.  Certainly, we seem to be most appreciated when we complete our driving duties efficiently, silently, and disappear immediately afterwards.  But like her cousin, our daughter continues to learn to walk her own walk, to do her own dance.  She still needs us looking on, if not holding her hand.  We’ll have to relearn old steps as we try out new ones together.

Next year at the Cape, our nephew will no longer be the baby. He’ll be a big brother to his eight-month old sibling, expected next month.   Other dim memories of our daughter’s babyhood will be refreshed as we watch our fifteen-year old helping her two young cousins pursue their unique choreography.  And, of course, creating some of her own original steps.

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                           D, age fourteen, at the Cape, in August.

Provincetown’s Music Man, Bobby Wetherbee

As I’ve mentioned, just a mile down the road from our quiet cottage on the beach in Truro is bustling, partying Provincetown, incredibly rich in its offerings of theatrical and musical entertainment.  This small seaside town has been a mecca for the visual and performing arts since the turn of the twentieth century. We try to sample something new every year.  But no matter what else we do, we always devote at least one late night to the music of Bobby Wetherbee.  

The ageless Bobby Wetherbee has been entertaining audiences in Ptown for fifty years.  From June to October, Thursdays through Sundays, he’s at his piano in the lounge of the Central House at the Crown & Anchor.  He’s a beloved icon, and our family understands why. 

Bobby’s musical gifts were evident early.  He recounts how, at age three, he sat down at the piano and simply began playing fluently.  Shepherded by his mother, who gave up her own acting career to be his manager, he was performing by age six.  He trained in voice, piano and acting, first in summer stock and private lessons, and  later at the New England Conservatory.  He’s had long-running gigs in New York, at the St. Regis (in the famous King Cole Bar) and at the Carlyle, and in Boston at the Copley Plaza.  Bobby makes his home in Boston and spends winters in Palm Beach.  But summer finds him in Provincetown, and Provincetown sure is lucky. 

We discovered Bobby twelve years ago as we were walking with my husband’s parents down Commercial Street after dinner.  We were drawn to  lively, infectious music spilling out from the Landmark Restaurant, where he was playing at the time.  A vivacious, strikingly tan man was holding forth at a piano positioned immediately by the open window.  A tightly packed crowd surrounded him, singing along enthusiastically.  The song was a family-friendly standard, perhaps Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah or Do-Re-Mi.  Our preschool-age daughter knew it as well as we did, and we all joined in.  My husband took her in his arms so  she could get a better view.  When Bobby noticed our group, he sang the rest of the song directly to our little daughter.   We added our appreciative applause to that of the patrons inside, and Bobby blew D a kiss.  She was delighted.  We all were. 

After another year of enjoying a too-short taste of Bobby’s music from the street outside, we all agreed:  we wanted more.  Since then, we always catch Bobby’s show.  Sometimes H and I go with his sister and her husband.  Sometimes H’s parents join us.  Sometimes we all go.  We’ve brought our daughter along many times. 

Bobby’s performance is compelling in its vitality. His repertoire is wide-ranging, but he favors classics and show tunes from the 1940s on. He doesn’t pause between numbers; he doesn’t take breaks.  In fact he never seems to tire.  One song segues smoothly into the next.   He may hold a final note for an improbably long interval, never losing volume or breath, before launching, with gusto, into the next song.  He pauses only to take the occasional exuberant swig from his ever-present water bottle.  One medley transitions into another, and the momentum builds: Dorothy Fields, Cole Porter, George M. Cohan, Irving Berlin, The Sound of Music, and on to Chicago. He may include a couple of his own songs, perhaps the spirited break-up song History, or the poignant That’s a Lie (which he wrote at age twelve).  You get the sense that Bobby knows what it means to win and lose at love, and to celebrate life, with humor and compassion, through the good and the bad. 

The unique appeal of Bobby’s show is hard to explain.   Certainly he has heaps of talent, but it entails far more than talent.  I’ve been to piano bars, to British pubs, where the crowd sings along happily, and it’s fun.  But Bobby makes the experience truly special.  His presence is effervescent, warm and outsized, and he is extraordinarily generous.  Nearly every night, he welcomes a professional or amateur to step up to the piano for a solo.  Sometimes it’s a fellow musician visiting from out of town, or a young performer fresh from a local revue.  Often it’s Tony, Provincetown’s ebullient Director of Tourism.  Bobby’s encouragement and his nuanced piano playing bring out the best in a singer.

Or would-be singers.  Bobby’s generosity extends to his entire audience. Not only does he invite the participation of everyone in the room; he somehow convinces each one of us that we’re really good. He brings us in almost conspiratorially, makes us a crucial part of the show. Toward the end of All that Jazz, he slows down the tempo and proclaims, “OK kids, this is the time when we sell it!”  You find yourself thinking:  he needs us; he can’t do it alone!  And then the entire room resounds joyously with “You’re gonna see your Sheba shimmy shake, and all that jazz!  She’s gonna shimmy till her garters break!  And ALL THAT JAZZ!!  We’re all in show biz, and gosh, we’re terrific!  Bobby makes you believe it, and you love him for it. 

An evening with Bobby Wetherbee attests to the unifying, civilizing power of music.  The audience at the Crown & Anchor spans generations and is diverse with a capital D.  But with song after song, false boundaries and perceived differences–all the stumbling blocks we set up to keep us apart–they melt away.  By the time the standing-room only crowd combines voices to join our gracious, considerate host in God Bless America, or another patriotic favorite, the dream of peace on earth seems not only possible, but likely. 

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This photo, taken in August after a show, captures Bobby’s generosity, kindness and warmth:  he hugs me as though I’m the star.  He makes me think, while I’m with him, that I could be.  That’s why he’s the real star. 

Thank you dear Bobby, for the music.   We’ll see you next summer. 

Wind for the Windsurfer

Every year, on the day before we leave for the Cape, my husband painstakingly packs the car with his vast array of windsurfing gear. To the untrained eye, it’s a bewildering hodgepodge, but it all makes sense to him. When I asked him to describe what’s included, he was more than happy to oblige. He rarely has the chance to talk about his beloved sport, as there are few fellow windsurfers in our area (due primarily to a lack of water and wind). Ideal conditions are rare at the Potomac or the Chesapeake (at least on weekends when H can get there). This is one reason we go to Cape Cod each year. And it’s because of the Cape that H discovered windsurfing. As a teenager, he got hooked when he took a lesson on Gull Pond in Wellfleet. 
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According to H, here’s what he packs for the trip:  four sails (ranging in size from three to seven and a half square meters),  one board (he has two, but he only brings one),  three masts, two mast extension tubes, two booms, four fins in a range of types and sizes (including a new weed fin called the “Reaper,”) a wind meter, life jacket,  harness, three wet suits, protective booties in two different thicknesses, a waterproof watch, a repair kit consisting of epoxy, sail tape and a “ding stick,” sunglass floaties, piles of velcro straps, ropes and “lashing straps,” and finally, two universal joints.  The board is strapped to the roof rack, but everything else must be inside the car.  This is unfortunate for our daughter, who, during the long drive, is wedged into a tight pocket.  If she has a growth spurt we’ll have to get a bigger car.

Optimal wind is not a given even at the Cape.  There are years when the equipment sits virtually unused,  a sad, sandy mound in the corner of the living room of our cottage, a painful reminder to H of what he’s missing.  When this is the case, he spends lots of time standing at the edge of the bay, staring dejectedly at the wind meter.  People relaxing on the beach may comment knowingly, “Too much wind, huh?”  This has never been the case, and H gets a little exasperated at the non-windsurfing public’s lack of wind know-how.  It is one super-frosty day in hell when there’s too much wind for the windsurfer.  Typically, if conditions are comfortable for lounging on the beach, the wind is utterly inadequate for H’s purposes.  It’s when the beach umbrellas begin to take flight that his mood begins to lift, as well.  Perfect wind for windsurfing often occurs only under perfectly miserable conditions.  When the sand whips your legs with the sting of a million needles, the spray from each violently crashing wave drenches you and your canvas chair, the sky is low and threatening, the temperature has dropped to wintry, and beach-goers seek shelter in their cottages, that’s when H will be merrily heading out, into the midst of the water and wind. 

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H, catching some air, is joined by a kite boarder, on what appears to be a silvery sea of mercury.

It takes several trips to lug the many required pieces of equipment down to the water’s edge.  Sometimes D or I help; more often, we simply stand inside the cottage in mute witness, amazed at his fortitude, marveling that such terrible weather cheers him so.  Once the craft is assembled, he tugs it through the thick seaweed that floats in the shallows of the bay.  At last, he’s off, and for a few seconds, D and I can see him speeding away, toward the curve of Provincetown.  Very quickly, he disappears into the gray mist of sea and sky.

We check on him periodically, because he’s always out far longer than anyone on shore deems possible or advisable.  D and I bundle up in hoodies and rainwear and trudge down to the water, scanning the horizon for a glimpse of the sail.  After a while we see a speck in the distance:  it’s H heading  toward shore.  We assume he’s had enough; surely he’s coming in, exhausted and frozen.  But no.  He’s just turning around.  He gives us the thumbs up and lets the wind pull him up and out of the water again.  (Skilled windsurfers needn’t struggle to pull up the sail, as novices do.)  D and I retreat to the cottage and consider playing a card game or huddling under beach towels.

During times like this, I can’t help but wish my husband had a different hobby.  Why can’t he be a history buff or model train collector?  Why can’t he build those cute little scale models of classic cars?  I used to encourage him to take up carpentry.  I could see him busy in a cozy basement woodworking studio, turning out copies of furniture based on pictures I ripped out of Antiques Magazine.  Why does he have to have a hobby that requires the unique confluence of so many elusive factors?

It could be worse, of course.  He could spend every spare moment on the golf course.  He could be a die-hard college football fan.  He could insist that we travel to all the games in an RV, like the alumni that turn Athens, GA into an ocean of red and black polyester on Saturdays.  Or he could be a Revolutionary War reenactor. Worse still, he could want me there beside him, his loyal colonial partner in a corset and thick wool dress, roasting a sheep over an open fire in the middle of August.  I have nothing against those who pursue such pasttimes.  Indeed, I have friends who do.  I’m just glad I’m not married to any of them (and I’m sure they echo the sentiment).   OK, maybe windsurfing isn’t so bad.

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This year at the Cape, H got the best wind we can remember, and I didn’t wish he had a different hobby.  The wind was exceedingly cooperative, almost thoughtful.  It didn’t insist on being accompanied by freezing cold and driving rain.  It was timely; it wasn’t at its peak during the evening when we planned to go into Provincetown for dinner.  The wind often blew most briskly shortly after dawn.  These windsurfing sessions were the ones that D and I found particularly pleasant,  since we were able to sleep through them.  But in the late afternoons, as sunset approached, I watched in comfort as H appeared to skim effortlessly across the water.  Sometimes, he even soared above it, just for a moment.  I think he’d say this:  that moment, that perfect, thrilling moment. . .that’s what it’s all about.

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For the first time ever, the windsurfer in H was almost satisfied when we left the Cape. Almost. In the words of the Meat Loaf song, Stark Raving Love, when it comes to windsurfing, for H, “Too much is never enough.”