Category Archives: Travel

A San Francisco Treat

For over twenty years now, my husband had been saying, “Sometime we need to go out to California.”  As a near-penniless grad student, he had given a talk at a conference in Monterey.  He had flown to San Francisco, where he managed to find an affordable motel (read seedy, verging on squalid) for the two days before his university per diem kicked in.  He became smitten with the city and the dramatic rocky west coast.  He’s been wanting to return ever since.  Yet the time was never quite right, and I wasn’t particularly enthusiastic.  Despite glowing reviews from him and several native and transplanted California friends, my stubborn, wrong-headed vision of the state persisted: thousands of miles of disaster-prone L.A. sprawl and superficiality.  My bias was no doubt influenced by my mother’s attitude.  In her opinion, California (unlike Europe, somehow), was simply too far away to merit serious consideration.  While I was growing up, she harbored a vague dread that one day, school, a job, or a boy would lure me to the opposite end of the country.  Now that my daughter is in high school, I can even more fully appreciate this concern.
One thing led to another, though, and we reached a family decision to head to the bay area this past winter break.  And I have to admit, I should have paid attention earlier to all those fans of northern California.   I understand now.  It’s every bit as good as they say. Maybe even a little bit better, because the weather was so gorgeous. We had prepared for fog, drizzle, gray skies and a damp chill in the air. Instead, we found sunshine, bright blue skies and afternoon temperatures in the mid-60s. With its palm trees, live oaks, cypresses, huge eucalyptus trees and lush flowers, the city has a tropical feel that, for me, at least, was completely unexpected.  It was a welcome break from the icy Virginia December we had left behind.

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The 19th-century Italianate tower of the Ferry Building sits sentinel on the beautifully reconfigured Embarcadero, (former site of the 1960s-era Embarcadero Freeway that collapsed during the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake.)
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A row of Victorian homes, delicately decorated and painted.
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Portico of the James C. Flood mansion in Nob Hill.  Built in 1886,
it’s one of few buildings to survive the 1906 earthquake and fire.

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A peaceful view along the waterfront, somewhere between
Fisherman’s Wharf & Ghirardelli Square.

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The Marina, with the Golden Gate Bridge in the background.
Nearby is Crissy Field, a must-see spot for my husband.  It’s where windsurfers gather when weather permits.

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On my list of sights was the monumental Palace of Fine Arts,
designed by Bernard Maybeck for the Panama-Pacific Exhibition in 1915.  It was rebuilt of permanent materials in the 1960s.

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A close-up view of the Palace of Fine Arts.

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A towering Victorian mansion on Alamo Square.

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Perhaps the most familiar row of Victorians in San Francisco, the
six “Painted Ladies” on Steiner Street across from Alamo Square.

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The less familiar, but just as beautifully painted sisters in the lower block of Steiner Street.
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Hibiscus adorns the entry of an Alamo Square home.
I loved the city’s tropical plantings.
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With Muni passes, we sampled the city’s many forms of public transportation. Vintage streetcars, like this one on Market Street, are better enjoyed from the outside, as they spend most of their time stopped. Best to catch a bus if you’re in a hurry.

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Cable cars offer a lively ride.  We learned to avoid the long tourist lines and hop on in the middle of the intersection. Our daughter was thrilled when she was assigned an outside perch as we sailed down one of the city’s steep, signature hills.

Summer’s Parting Shot, and a Friendship for the Ages

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Until the beginning of this week, the weather has been so warm here that I was getting lulled into thinking it was still summer. While I’d prefer that it not be 85 degrees in October, the ongoing heat suggested that time was standing still.  Had we finally found that “Hold” button I’m always wishing for?  It almost seemed so.

But the world must be spinning, and moving in its orbit.  Monday’s rain ushered in more seasonable temperatures.  It triggered the pine straw showers that turn our driveway and the hill beside it golden-red every October.  We had one beautiful, crisp fall day.  Yesterday brought cold, insistent rain, and it continues today.  It’s time to search out my gloves and the rest of my warmer dog-walking gear.  But I need one last look at summer.

A bit of summer’s essence is preserved in the photo above.  It shows our daughter and two friends on stand up paddle boards this August.  It was just before sunset, the air was unusually balmy, and Cape Cod Bay was calm and smooth.  It was toward the end of a very special day, when we had a visit with friends from home.  This was an unusual event.  We don’t typically see Virginia friends in Massachusetts.  Our Cape friends and our home friends have, until now, remained completely separate; they inhabit two very different worlds.

But this year, our neighbors decided to vacation in Plymouth.  This is the family with whom we often spend Thanksgiving.  We met them when D and their younger daughter began Kindergarten together.  The girls have been close ever since.  Their friendship is not of the on-again, off-again type.  It’s not stained by gossip, catty commentary, competition or envy.  They never discussed being “best friends.”  It’s a friendship that doesn’t require numerical ranking or constant rebooting.  The two girls are not and needn’t be exactly alike.  But they seem to have a genuine regard and respect for one another, and a true appreciation for their differences.  They have a rare thing going. This kind of comfortable companionship doesn’t happen often.  If we’re lucky enough to find it, we need to hold onto it.

All during elementary school, the girls had a standing Tuesday playdate.  It’s been a pleasure to watch them together through the years.  I would peek in as they made up games in the playroom, watch from the window as they dashed around the yard in the sprinkler or performed acrobatics on our rope swing.  They were nearly always laughing, and their friendship struck me as familiar.  I could see me with my childhood friend Katie, with whom the most mundane activity could be fun.  She and I shared a similar bond, and it’s one that has endured.  I expect that, in years to come, D and her friend will eagerly catch up with one another during winter breaks from college.  I’d be very surprised if, thirty years from now, they’re not exchanging Christmas cards (or whatever kind of virtual correspondence has taken their place by then).

The older daughter is now a high school senior.  Her interest in several New England colleges prompted the family vacation in Plymouth.  The ideal elder sister, she is patient, encouraging, grounded and wise.  She has never been above socializing with her sister’s younger circle.  My daughter considers her a good friend and trusted advisor. I find it reassuring to know that the three girls are all, for this one year, in high school together.

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The two photos above show the friends at our local Memorial Day carnival in 2008. When our girls were in elementary school, this event was an annual tradition, not to be missed.

These kind and thoughtful sisters, as would be expected, embody the same values as their  mother and father.  Once you’re a parent, your child largely determines your friends.  The parents of your child’s friends become the people with whom you spend time, like it or not.  Our daughter chose well for us;  we are very fortunate.  H and I enjoy a real sense of camaraderie with the mother and father and with their two girls.  It was a welcome turn of events when it happened that our families would be in the same area at the same time for our summer vacations.

The day that our friends were arriving in Truro, we were filled with anticipation.  Text updates told us they were getting closer.  When they pulled into the shell-paved parking lot, we were crossing the green to meet them.  D was excited to show her friends her favorite summer place.  We knew the whole family would appreciate the bay and its charms.  They wouldn’t be put off by the seaweed.  They’d find the odd marine life amusing.  They wouldn’t wonder why we didn’t opt for more luxurious housing.  They would enjoy Provincetown’s beauty as well as its eccentricities and humor.  The day would be relaxing, easy and fun.

And it was.  It was a lovely day.  There was time to sit back in beach chairs on the flats during an impressively low tide.  Time for the girls to create a big moated sand castle.  Time to watch the water reclaim it and most of the beach.  After an early dinner at the Lobster Pot, with no crowd and no wait, we wandered among Ptown’s unique sights.  We returned as sunset approached so D and her friends could try out the SUP boards.  The water was gloriously tranquil.  The typical chill of the evening never descended.  We talked, laughed and watched our girls floating happily on the smooth, glassy bay.

The photo of my daughter and her friends on the water is my parting  summer shot.  It captures the luxurious ease and the rhythm of summer.  And it speaks of the promise of friendship to transcend the seasons and the years.

The Kids are All Right

October’s here, and my husband and I are a month into our new roles as parents of a high schooler.  There’s a much earlier schedule (alarms begin going off at 5:20 AM at our house), our daughter is far busier with schoolwork, extracurriculars  and social stuff (Homecoming, and all that entails, is this weekend).  The parenting dance feels trickier than ever:  when to intervene or not, step in, step back, say yes, say no, when to shut up and let life takes its course.  Any advice or commentary we offer must be phrased with great delicacy and neutrality.   Increasingly, words intended as encouragement or light-hearted comedy are interpreted negatively.  In certain ways the choreography is new.  But some of the moves are familiar, as I realized this summer, vacationing with our fifteen-month old nephew.  Watching him prompted memories of my daughter at his age, and I noticed parallels in parenting a toddler and a teen.

 

Last year I wrote about how H’s sister and her husband brought their new baby, then three months old, to Cape Cod (see Our Summer Village on the Cape, September 2012).  I marveled at their bravery in attempting a vacation at this stage of their child’s life. H and I found it too stressful to venture far from home during our daughter’s first two years.   Last August, D’s new cousin was a cuddly, portable bundle.  He needed everything done for him, but he lacked the power of locomotion.  He stayed where he was placed.  I wondered what even greater reserves of parental courage and vigilance would be required a year later, when their son would be a new walker.

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Our nephew, at thirteen months, in May.
In August, he rarely paused long enough to be photographed.

This past summer, our nephew took his walking very seriously indeed.  He was constantly on the move, always working on his form.  The shifting sand and the piles of dried seaweed threw him for a loop.  He soldiered on, carefully and deliberately, but he made it clear that he wasn’t about to go it alone.  At the least hint of unsteadiness, he thrust out a hand and emitted an impatient squawk, his way of demanding that Mama or Daddy hasten to his side.  He would accept help from Grandma and Grandpa, but remained wary of H, D and me.  We hadn’t yet put in enough hours to earn his trust, and I could respect him for that. He was equally quick to indicate when assistance was unwelcome.  The worst offense was to pick him up without permission.  This was grounds for loud and vigorous protest.

When the baby was happy, he was very happy.  He smiled, giggled, clapped his hands gently and soundlessly, and, when asked, performed his signature move, the subtlest of stationary dances, a barely perceptible, and very funny, shifting of his hips. When he was touchy, he was very touchy.  Often his fiery irritability had no explanation. Luckily for him, whether glad or mad, he was awfully cute, a sweet-faced, doll-sized figure in a floppy sun hat and long shorts.

Considering that D’s cousin negotiated the beach with the utmost care, I was at first surprised to see that hard surfaces inspired in him a devil-may-care attitude.  Once his little foot touched a sidewalk or a gravelly parking lot, if given the chance, he was likely to break into a wild run.  He looked like a tiny fugitive attempting a last-ditch effort at freedom.  These feats of daring frequently ended badly, in tumbles, scrapes and anguished screams.

Then it began to come back to me:  our daughter behaved similarly when she was about his age.  On soft, unthreatening grass, she walked with unhurried ease.  But should she discover a patch of rocky, ill-paved concrete, that’s when she’d tear off in a desperate sprint.  She was careful under relatively safe circumstances, yet often reckless when there was a hint of danger.  When I hosted the baby playgroup for an Easter egg hunt at our new home, I looked forward to seeing the children roaming happily on the big front lawn.  But D and her friends couldn’t care less about the nice grass or the colorful eggs hidden there.  It seemed they had decided unanimously that the only game in town was scrambling up and down the rough concrete stairs off the back porch.  Up and down, over and over, while we mothers hovered anxiously, trying to focus their attention elsewhere, to no avail.

During D’s toddler years I often lamented her frequent instances of contrariness.  If I really wanted her to do a certain thing, she was likely to put all her effort into doing the opposite thing.  It seemed like God’s joke on parents.  Of course, he knows how we feel.  In that paradise garden he lovingly created for us, there were boundless delicacies and only a single prohibition.  We know how that went.

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D and friends, at about sixteen months old, on April 14, 2000.  Safety concerns led my husband to block off the top of the stairs with a plywood board; we entered the porch via a ramp installed by the previous owner. The playgroup still insisted on climbing up and down these ugly stairs to nowhere.  The steps, along with our old porch, are long gone.

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Last year at the Cape I could envision D and her new cousin, some day, hand in hand, an adorable sight as they headed down to the bay.  I had hoped it would happen this summer, but that was premature.  Our nephew wasn’t ready to go exploring without his parents at arm’s reach (except when he was racing across the pavement).  I had almost forgotten children’s insistence on their own schedules, their own agendas. They won’t be rushed, and they have their own distinct personalities, no matter how young.

Looking back on the early years with our daughter, I see that I wanted her to be a small, improved copy of me, with all my likes and dislikes, yet lacking my faults and weaknesses.  There were times when I had counted on a different developmental pace for D.  I remember reading to her when she was in her second year.  I expected her to soak up enthusiastically the nuances of plot and  illustration I pointed out to her, but she wasn’t impressed with such details.  She just wanted to get on with it, and she demanded insistently:  Turn page!  Turn page!  If I didn’t do so, she would grab the page roughly and turn it herself.  The majority of her picture books from this era are ripped and fragmentary.  When D wasn’t quite three, we spent a weekend in Princeton, and I had visions of her eyes widening at the beauty and elegance of the collegiate Gothic architecture.  But she rarely looked up; all she wanted to do was draw in the dirt with a stick. My husband recognized the absurdity of my expectations, but he had his own.  He was disappointed when his daughter showed no interest in advanced math or engineering concepts at two and a half.

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 D in June 2000, at  eighteen months, free to turn these unrippable cardboard pages at her own pace.

Watching my sister- and brother-in-law cope with the  toddler stage of their son’s life, I remember how H and I, too, had to learn when to lend our daughter a hand, and when to let her go.  Sometimes we had to let her run, even if it was across hard pavement. As her little cousin roves farther and faster on his own two little feet, our daughter ventures farther and more frequently from us, her parents.  This year on the Cape, she was among the crowd of teenagers that wanders the grounds of our cottage complex.  She rode the bus into Ptown with her friends.  She stayed out later than ever at night with the group, talking and laughing on the green.  Her irritability, like that of her baby cousin, may be fierce, sudden, and without explanation.  Now, with school and all its related activities under way, H and I might define our primary parental obligation as that of the chauffeur.  Certainly, we seem to be most appreciated when we complete our driving duties efficiently, silently, and disappear immediately afterwards.  But like her cousin, our daughter continues to learn to walk her own walk, to do her own dance.  She still needs us looking on, if not holding her hand.  We’ll have to relearn old steps as we try out new ones together.

Next year at the Cape, our nephew will no longer be the baby. He’ll be a big brother to his eight-month old sibling, expected next month.   Other dim memories of our daughter’s babyhood will be refreshed as we watch our fifteen-year old helping her two young cousins pursue their unique choreography.  And, of course, creating some of her own original steps.

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                           D, age fourteen, at the Cape, in August.

Provincetown’s Music Man, Bobby Wetherbee

As I’ve mentioned, just a mile down the road from our quiet cottage on the beach in Truro is bustling, partying Provincetown, incredibly rich in its offerings of theatrical and musical entertainment.  This small seaside town has been a mecca for the visual and performing arts since the turn of the twentieth century. We try to sample something new every year.  But no matter what else we do, we always devote at least one late night to the music of Bobby Wetherbee.  

The ageless Bobby Wetherbee has been entertaining audiences in Ptown for fifty years.  From June to October, Thursdays through Sundays, he’s at his piano in the lounge of the Central House at the Crown & Anchor.  He’s a beloved icon, and our family understands why. 

Bobby’s musical gifts were evident early.  He recounts how, at age three, he sat down at the piano and simply began playing fluently.  Shepherded by his mother, who gave up her own acting career to be his manager, he was performing by age six.  He trained in voice, piano and acting, first in summer stock and private lessons, and  later at the New England Conservatory.  He’s had long-running gigs in New York, at the St. Regis (in the famous King Cole Bar) and at the Carlyle, and in Boston at the Copley Plaza.  Bobby makes his home in Boston and spends winters in Palm Beach.  But summer finds him in Provincetown, and Provincetown sure is lucky. 

We discovered Bobby twelve years ago as we were walking with my husband’s parents down Commercial Street after dinner.  We were drawn to  lively, infectious music spilling out from the Landmark Restaurant, where he was playing at the time.  A vivacious, strikingly tan man was holding forth at a piano positioned immediately by the open window.  A tightly packed crowd surrounded him, singing along enthusiastically.  The song was a family-friendly standard, perhaps Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah or Do-Re-Mi.  Our preschool-age daughter knew it as well as we did, and we all joined in.  My husband took her in his arms so  she could get a better view.  When Bobby noticed our group, he sang the rest of the song directly to our little daughter.   We added our appreciative applause to that of the patrons inside, and Bobby blew D a kiss.  She was delighted.  We all were. 

After another year of enjoying a too-short taste of Bobby’s music from the street outside, we all agreed:  we wanted more.  Since then, we always catch Bobby’s show.  Sometimes H and I go with his sister and her husband.  Sometimes H’s parents join us.  Sometimes we all go.  We’ve brought our daughter along many times. 

Bobby’s performance is compelling in its vitality. His repertoire is wide-ranging, but he favors classics and show tunes from the 1940s on. He doesn’t pause between numbers; he doesn’t take breaks.  In fact he never seems to tire.  One song segues smoothly into the next.   He may hold a final note for an improbably long interval, never losing volume or breath, before launching, with gusto, into the next song.  He pauses only to take the occasional exuberant swig from his ever-present water bottle.  One medley transitions into another, and the momentum builds: Dorothy Fields, Cole Porter, George M. Cohan, Irving Berlin, The Sound of Music, and on to Chicago. He may include a couple of his own songs, perhaps the spirited break-up song History, or the poignant That’s a Lie (which he wrote at age twelve).  You get the sense that Bobby knows what it means to win and lose at love, and to celebrate life, with humor and compassion, through the good and the bad. 

The unique appeal of Bobby’s show is hard to explain.   Certainly he has heaps of talent, but it entails far more than talent.  I’ve been to piano bars, to British pubs, where the crowd sings along happily, and it’s fun.  But Bobby makes the experience truly special.  His presence is effervescent, warm and outsized, and he is extraordinarily generous.  Nearly every night, he welcomes a professional or amateur to step up to the piano for a solo.  Sometimes it’s a fellow musician visiting from out of town, or a young performer fresh from a local revue.  Often it’s Tony, Provincetown’s ebullient Director of Tourism.  Bobby’s encouragement and his nuanced piano playing bring out the best in a singer.

Or would-be singers.  Bobby’s generosity extends to his entire audience. Not only does he invite the participation of everyone in the room; he somehow convinces each one of us that we’re really good. He brings us in almost conspiratorially, makes us a crucial part of the show. Toward the end of All that Jazz, he slows down the tempo and proclaims, “OK kids, this is the time when we sell it!”  You find yourself thinking:  he needs us; he can’t do it alone!  And then the entire room resounds joyously with “You’re gonna see your Sheba shimmy shake, and all that jazz!  She’s gonna shimmy till her garters break!  And ALL THAT JAZZ!!  We’re all in show biz, and gosh, we’re terrific!  Bobby makes you believe it, and you love him for it. 

An evening with Bobby Wetherbee attests to the unifying, civilizing power of music.  The audience at the Crown & Anchor spans generations and is diverse with a capital D.  But with song after song, false boundaries and perceived differences–all the stumbling blocks we set up to keep us apart–they melt away.  By the time the standing-room only crowd combines voices to join our gracious, considerate host in God Bless America, or another patriotic favorite, the dream of peace on earth seems not only possible, but likely. 

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This photo, taken in August after a show, captures Bobby’s generosity, kindness and warmth:  he hugs me as though I’m the star.  He makes me think, while I’m with him, that I could be.  That’s why he’s the real star. 

Thank you dear Bobby, for the music.   We’ll see you next summer. 

Wind for the Windsurfer

Every year, on the day before we leave for the Cape, my husband painstakingly packs the car with his vast array of windsurfing gear. To the untrained eye, it’s a bewildering hodgepodge, but it all makes sense to him. When I asked him to describe what’s included, he was more than happy to oblige. He rarely has the chance to talk about his beloved sport, as there are few fellow windsurfers in our area (due primarily to a lack of water and wind). Ideal conditions are rare at the Potomac or the Chesapeake (at least on weekends when H can get there). This is one reason we go to Cape Cod each year. And it’s because of the Cape that H discovered windsurfing. As a teenager, he got hooked when he took a lesson on Gull Pond in Wellfleet. 
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According to H, here’s what he packs for the trip:  four sails (ranging in size from three to seven and a half square meters),  one board (he has two, but he only brings one),  three masts, two mast extension tubes, two booms, four fins in a range of types and sizes (including a new weed fin called the “Reaper,”) a wind meter, life jacket,  harness, three wet suits, protective booties in two different thicknesses, a waterproof watch, a repair kit consisting of epoxy, sail tape and a “ding stick,” sunglass floaties, piles of velcro straps, ropes and “lashing straps,” and finally, two universal joints.  The board is strapped to the roof rack, but everything else must be inside the car.  This is unfortunate for our daughter, who, during the long drive, is wedged into a tight pocket.  If she has a growth spurt we’ll have to get a bigger car.

Optimal wind is not a given even at the Cape.  There are years when the equipment sits virtually unused,  a sad, sandy mound in the corner of the living room of our cottage, a painful reminder to H of what he’s missing.  When this is the case, he spends lots of time standing at the edge of the bay, staring dejectedly at the wind meter.  People relaxing on the beach may comment knowingly, “Too much wind, huh?”  This has never been the case, and H gets a little exasperated at the non-windsurfing public’s lack of wind know-how.  It is one super-frosty day in hell when there’s too much wind for the windsurfer.  Typically, if conditions are comfortable for lounging on the beach, the wind is utterly inadequate for H’s purposes.  It’s when the beach umbrellas begin to take flight that his mood begins to lift, as well.  Perfect wind for windsurfing often occurs only under perfectly miserable conditions.  When the sand whips your legs with the sting of a million needles, the spray from each violently crashing wave drenches you and your canvas chair, the sky is low and threatening, the temperature has dropped to wintry, and beach-goers seek shelter in their cottages, that’s when H will be merrily heading out, into the midst of the water and wind. 

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H, catching some air, is joined by a kite boarder, on what appears to be a silvery sea of mercury.

It takes several trips to lug the many required pieces of equipment down to the water’s edge.  Sometimes D or I help; more often, we simply stand inside the cottage in mute witness, amazed at his fortitude, marveling that such terrible weather cheers him so.  Once the craft is assembled, he tugs it through the thick seaweed that floats in the shallows of the bay.  At last, he’s off, and for a few seconds, D and I can see him speeding away, toward the curve of Provincetown.  Very quickly, he disappears into the gray mist of sea and sky.

We check on him periodically, because he’s always out far longer than anyone on shore deems possible or advisable.  D and I bundle up in hoodies and rainwear and trudge down to the water, scanning the horizon for a glimpse of the sail.  After a while we see a speck in the distance:  it’s H heading  toward shore.  We assume he’s had enough; surely he’s coming in, exhausted and frozen.  But no.  He’s just turning around.  He gives us the thumbs up and lets the wind pull him up and out of the water again.  (Skilled windsurfers needn’t struggle to pull up the sail, as novices do.)  D and I retreat to the cottage and consider playing a card game or huddling under beach towels.

During times like this, I can’t help but wish my husband had a different hobby.  Why can’t he be a history buff or model train collector?  Why can’t he build those cute little scale models of classic cars?  I used to encourage him to take up carpentry.  I could see him busy in a cozy basement woodworking studio, turning out copies of furniture based on pictures I ripped out of Antiques Magazine.  Why does he have to have a hobby that requires the unique confluence of so many elusive factors?

It could be worse, of course.  He could spend every spare moment on the golf course.  He could be a die-hard college football fan.  He could insist that we travel to all the games in an RV, like the alumni that turn Athens, GA into an ocean of red and black polyester on Saturdays.  Or he could be a Revolutionary War reenactor. Worse still, he could want me there beside him, his loyal colonial partner in a corset and thick wool dress, roasting a sheep over an open fire in the middle of August.  I have nothing against those who pursue such pasttimes.  Indeed, I have friends who do.  I’m just glad I’m not married to any of them (and I’m sure they echo the sentiment).   OK, maybe windsurfing isn’t so bad.

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This year at the Cape, H got the best wind we can remember, and I didn’t wish he had a different hobby.  The wind was exceedingly cooperative, almost thoughtful.  It didn’t insist on being accompanied by freezing cold and driving rain.  It was timely; it wasn’t at its peak during the evening when we planned to go into Provincetown for dinner.  The wind often blew most briskly shortly after dawn.  These windsurfing sessions were the ones that D and I found particularly pleasant,  since we were able to sleep through them.  But in the late afternoons, as sunset approached, I watched in comfort as H appeared to skim effortlessly across the water.  Sometimes, he even soared above it, just for a moment.  I think he’d say this:  that moment, that perfect, thrilling moment. . .that’s what it’s all about.

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For the first time ever, the windsurfer in H was almost satisfied when we left the Cape. Almost. In the words of the Meat Loaf song, Stark Raving Love, when it comes to windsurfing, for H, “Too much is never enough.”

 

Back Again, on Shore Road in Truro

When we turn off Route 6 onto Route 6A, Shore Road in Truro, we’re five hundred miles and twelve hours’ driving time from our house in Virginia. But we feel like we’re coming home. And we are, in a way. We’re here every year. We like to think that we’re more than tourists, who are just passing through, perhaps never to return. We will be back; we’re a sure thing. We’ve been coming here so long that we can’t imagine not going back.

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Each summer’s inaugural drive down Shore Road finds the three of us exultant.  Our time at the Cape is something we agree on completely; we all hold it equally dear, for our own reasons.  The trials and traffic of the long trip are behind us.  We eagerly scan the familiar land- and seascape along the mile and a half that leads to our little cottage complex.  It’s rare that we are greeted by any major changes, and for this we are grateful.

The water, the sand, and the light are in constant daily flux, yet from year to year, this sliver of the Outer Cape appears virtually the same.  The manmade trappings along Shore Road are modest; they make no effort to compete with nature’s spectacular beauty.  There are bungalows, saltboxes, and of course, Cape Cods, but no high rises, no glitz.  There are groupings of rental cottages.  Most are small; some are unbelievably tiny.  All are picturesque.

Those lucky enough to get a toe-hold along this enchanted strip of land don’t easily let it go.  Homes are passed from one generation to the next.  The same weathered, typically hand-painted signs in front yards have greeted us for decades: Beach Rose, The Little Skipper, The Sea Gull, Pilgrim Colony.   Occasionally a cottage is resided, reshingled or otherwise refurbished.  Some grow more charmingly dilapated every year.  Once in a very long while a new building appears.  Mostly, though, all remains reassuringly the same, and seems to promise always to be so.

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Lush, vibrantly colored flowers adorn the minuscule front yards of many Shore Road cottages.

                              

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A rusty owl keeps wide-eyed watch in front of one home.

                                          

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This weathered, shingled cottage, with its Pineys sign, has been here as long as I can remember.

                                           

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Hydrangeas, in great profusion, flourish along the fencerows.

                                   

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The vacant motel, languishing in a perpetual sense of comfortable decay.

                                                 

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A vigilant seagull caretaker. After seeing The Birds this summer, I will keep my distance.

                                                                    

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Simple bayside cottages, brilliant blue sky, luxuriant green grass.
This is our Cape Cod.

Imaginary Worlds at Atlanta’s Botanical Gardens

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Another outing my daughter and I enjoyed during our time in Atlanta was the Imaginary Worlds mosaiculture exhibit at the Botanical Gardens.  This beautiful show runs through October and features fantastic topiary creations.  Some, like the Earth Goddess above, are of immense proportions.  We highly recommend a visit, with the note that there are many shady spots to enjoy the interesting, unusual scenery and wide variety of plant life. 

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                      This unicorn was being groomed during our visit.

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The ogre appeared sleepy and mild-mannered.

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One of several charming bunnies.

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Nice doggie!  Come!  Don’t chase that rabbit!


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The unique canopy walk is serene and shaded.


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D posed with all the Garden frogs. . .


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 . . .just as she did during our first visit, in the spring of 2005.

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 D and me, at the Gardens, eight years ago.

 

Compromise Reached

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We made plans, and during our week in Atlanta we managed a good mix of keeping busy and sitting around doing nothing.  Our fun-for-the-whole-family event was a screening of The Birds at the Fox Theatre, Atlanta’s historic movie palace (See Back When the Movies Were Big: Atlanta’s Fabulous Fox, March 2012).  Mama joined D and me at the High Museum for the current special exhibit centered on the famous Vermeer painting, Girl with a Pearl Earring.  D  humored me by showing  interest in my tales of the Museum as it was in the 80s when I worked there. While we lingered in the atrium before leaving, I could almost see my former boss heading toward the galleries with his characteristic bouncy step.  (See Remembering Gudmund Vigtel, November 2012).

For a few outings, D and I were on our own.  On these excursions, we drove the unlikely second car, an iridescent gold PT Cruiser that Daddy keeps at the ready for us.  Neither of my parents claims responsibility for choosing or buying this vehicle, but somehow, they own it.  I’m glad, because it has always made D smile.  During our annual tour of the shops of Virginia-Highland, we actually made a few purchases.  According to tradition, Mama and Daddy met us for lunch that day at George’s.

D and I spent our last Atlanta afternoon meandering through midtown with one of my dearest friends.  Tedd and I were in school and church together from second grade on.  We therefore have considerable common ground, and we catch up about once a year.  We started our wanderings on the grounds of Grady High, our alma mater, which has been expanded and beautifully refurbished in recent years.  Reading the bricks of the commemorative courtyard brought back long-submerged memories and inspired recollections of half-forgotten classmates now dispersed.  We crossed the street to Piedmont Park and envied the swimmers at the enormous new sparkling pool.  When did the city start looking so good, so clean and fresh?  We finished our tour at O’Keefe, our former middle school, now owned by Georgia Tech.  What was the name of that band that played at the eighth grade dance?  Was it really the Family Plan?  Tedd, with his easy, endearing sweetness and unique humor, brought D into our shared past in a way that I alone could not. She has come to appreciate Tedd just as I do, and she seemed to take real pleasure in our swapping of 70s-era stories.

At my parents’ house, our sitting around doing nothing was of high quality, as it should be on a vacation.  As in previous years, we passed contented hours on the screened porch.  Shaded by trees and edged by dense foliage, the porch is like a cage for humans in the midst of a wildlife preserve.  It’s a perfect spot to watch the exuberant acrobatics of squirrels, chipmunks, robins, wrens and brown thrashers.  In the evenings, we regularly heard a pair of local barred owls calling to one another.

 

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We spent time simply being there with Nana and Papa, engaged in those free-wheeling conversations that seem trivial at the time, but in hindsight, just might be the lifeblood of family and community.  Neighbors dropped by, and D and I went visiting, as we always have. Both Sundays at church, I felt as though I were returning to a second home.  We were greeted warmly by caring friends, most of whom are watching D grow up from afar.

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If, in my last post, my daughter sounded like an entitled, annoying teenager, during the visit she was rarely anything but gracious, patient and kind, to me, my parents, and to all our friends.  No one would have recognized her as one suffering the throes of high-tech gadget withdrawal.  Some nights, as I drifted off to sleep, I could hear D and her Nana talking and laughing in the TV room the way they have done for years. It’s a lovely, reassuring sound–the sound of my daughter and my mother, two like-minded night owls, good friends, happy and comfortable together.

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Before we left for the airport, Daddy cut us some gardenias to carry with us.
They’re dried and brown now, but still fragrant.

Help! I’m Traveling with a Teenager!

Just before our recent trip to Atlanta, my daughter somewhat reluctantly admitted to a concern about boredom during our stay.  This made her feel guilty, because she loves my parents, and she knows how much they treasure her, their only grandchild.  But, she wondered, what would we do, for eight days?  This worry was a first for her.  In years past, she has looked forward nearly absolutely to visiting Nana and Papa. 
When she was younger, of course, the bar for fun and adventure was low and accessible.  Beginning with the plane ride, a sojourn in Atlanta was full of thrills, there for easy picking.  Her grandparents’ house was an enchanted place, and there was so much to do.  A typical day began with a leisurely breakfast on the screened porch.  D could have Papa’s scrambled eggs every morning if she wanted; he was truly happy to make them for her.  Later, we’d wander from park to park, sampling the different types of playground equipment.  We’d “hike” the wooded nature trail by the creek.  We’d visit neighbors, who doted on D as if she were their own granddaughter.  She’d feed their fish, play with their cats and dogs.  In the afternoons, we’d explore a fantastic sea of old toys in the upstairs playroom, or dress up in Nana’s amazing vintage creations.  At night, we’d be back on the porch for ice cream and ghost stories. Every day offered wondrous opportunities. 

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Home sweet home for Nana and Papa.

Now that she’s a teenager, the magic has mostly dissipated.  While I expect she’ll always have a sentimental spot in her heart for her grandparents’ home, the silvery jingle of the Southern Express bell is barely audible.  Former childhood pleasures inspire only yawns, wistful sighs and bouts of grumpy melancholy. 
What makes the situation even worse is that, as D grows up, the rest of us are growing older and more jaded.  With each passing year, my parents have less interest in leaving the house for entertainment.  They’re not recluses or agoraphobics.  Most mornings, Daddy is running errands.  He zips out and back to Kroger, to the pharmacy, to the bank, to mail a package, to gas up the car.  He returns almost before it seems humanly possible.  But together, my parents  leave home rarely except to go to church, out to eat, or to do neighborly good deeds.  Occasionally they see a movie, and of course there are doctor appointments, which eat up huge chunks of time.  Home is where they really want to be, and I don’t blame them.  Home is comfortable; the outside world tends to be far less so. In going out, the pay-off is too small, the hurdles too many.  Unpleasantness abounds: heat, traffic, crowds,  noise.  If I live to be my parents’ age, I may well be a hermit. Those aforementioned factors, plus the chance of thunderstorms and the need to comfort my anxious dog, kept me at home last Saturday as H and D went to a Nationals game. 

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From the porch, a view of summer green.

Another thorny issue nagging at D was the dread of spending over a week in a technology vacuum. Several years ago, we presented my mother with an iMac for Christmas. Because we couldn’t be there to help her deal with the constant minor quandaries, and she didn’t want to be a bother to friends, she gave up.  By the following Easter the iMac was back at our house.  When I suggested to D that we had a  unique opportunity to travel back in time, to experience the life of an earlier era, before household computers, cell phones, cordless phones, or Wi-Fi, she was unmoved. She didn’t want that kind of time travel. Her iPhone would be rendered nearly useless.  She would be cut off from her network of friends.  And, I realized, with some alarm, she would be primarily dependent on me for amusement.  My husband, who is often as restless as a teenager, would be with us only for the first weekend.  We needed to make some real plans, or suffer the consequences.  
                                               

 
                                                            

  

In the Way Back, the Old Swing Set, Going Back to Nature

The backyard of my childhood home in Atlanta, like most of those in the neighborhood, is narrow but very deep. It has two distinct sections, which my friends and I differentiated in this way: the area just behind the house was the back; the more remote area was the way back. Sometimes, for emphasis, we called it the way, way back. The same terminology, of course, referred to the seating arrangements in those old station wagons from the 60s and 70s (including our 1965 Dodge Polara, with its rear-facing seat, as well as the one appearing in a current movie of the same name.)

We bought our house from a family with four children who played in every inch of that yard, as the numerous toy soldiers, cap guns, pen knives and dolls with mold-encrusted eyes, found in the unlikeliest places, attest. In 1968, when we moved in, the landscaping left much to be desired. There were a few azaleas and some dogwoods in a wide-open sea of scraggly weeds and spots of bare earth. We didn’t devote much time or thought to real gardening; we had more than enough to keep us busy with the ongoing renovation of the house and the rehabilitation of the extremely patchy front lawn.  (See Morningside Begins its Comeback, July 2012.)  But a mere four decades plus later, in the absence of an army of hard-charging children, nature has worked its own special magic.  Behind the house now lies a sort of enchanted urban jungle.

It’s not that we stood by and did nothing.  In that case the house would now be completely hidden by a tangled Sleeping Beauty thicket.  Daddy has always been out there clipping and pulling weeds.  Since his retirement, he has spent the greater portion of his waking hours combating  the constant, determined creeping of the vigorous, semi-tropical plant life that thrives immediately outside the walls. If it’s daylight, Daddy is pruning, pulling ivy, gathering fallen sticks, clearing away the ongoing accumulation of natural debris. Nearest the house, in the back, Daddy’s efforts are keeping nature’s tentacles in check, to some degree. Atop the steps leading from the rock garden, there is a central area that to this day remains recognizable as an actual yard.

Further back, however, the battle has long since been lost. The way back luxuriates in a state of benign neglect. With my every summer visit, it’s substantially lusher, more enclosed, more overgrown. Every year, the vines have thickened, reached higher, delved deeper. Nature’s resolve to have its own way is everywhere in evidence.

When we bought the house, the way back was especially barren, strewn with pine straw and sprouting a few weeds. It was here that Daddy set up my red and green metal swing set. Brand shiny new when I was two, he assembled it behind the small house in suburban Lexington where I was born. While our family bounced around from Kentucky to North Carolina during Daddy’s graduate school years, the swing set found a temporary home beside the chicken lot at my grandparents’ farm.  Once we settled in Atlanta, it settled there with us. In the theatrical production of my childhood that runs in my head, that old swing set is a crucial backdrop, an essential set piece. It boasted none of the fancy components seen in today’s typically elaborate play sets–no castle, fort, or climbing wall–just a two-person glider, a couple of swings, a trapeze and a slide. It was nothing special, but it was where my friends and I gathered. Located, as it was, in the remoteness of the way, way back, it was where we met to play, to pretend, to talk, to argue, to make plans. It was our place.  A kids’ place.

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The swing set, during a rare Atlanta snow, in 1983.

Not all memories the swing set conjures are idyllic ones. Several years during elementary school I struggled with the mind-gripping demons we now refer to neatly as OCD.  It didn’t have a name back then. Thanks to the patience and understanding of my mother, who had experienced a similar near-insanity as a child, I managed not to fall apart completely. Mama sat at my bedside every night, when I’d tell her each worry, and she’d tell me not to worry.  A general, all-encompassing “Don’t worry” meant nothing.  I needed her to respond to each anxiety individually.  It was exhausting for both of us, but she never complained.  During the school day, when I was occupied, I was OK. I don’t think any of my buddies knew I was crazy.  In the late afternoons, if I didn’t have the company of friends, the beasties roared back, preparing for the free-for-all of night. They often demanded my fealty in the isolation of the way back. I can see myself running yet one more time around the swing set, zipping joylessly down the slide again and again, touching the rusty spot on the top bar just once more.  I have to do it.  No, I didn’t touch it exactly right. I have to do it again. I’m a weary, restless, ten year old nervous wreck. Fortunately for me, that time passed.  I either outgrew the demons, or they got bored and went on to torment another, more defenseless child, one without as compassionate a mother.

As a high schooler, having learned a few moves on the rickety uneven parallel bars during gym class, I used the high bar of the swing set to practice. With the picnic bench positioned below, I could propel myself onto the bar and execute back hip circles. I shudder to think how close I must have come, repeatedly, to flying off and breaking my back, my neck, or worse.

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Vines, here in their early stages, are covered by snow.

During my college years, there were fewer hours to be whiled away in the way back, and nature asserted itself in earnest.  The wooden seats of the glider rotted and disappeared.  The slide weathered to a warm, rust red.  A few vines, wisteria and grape, managed toe holds and began to wind their way up, across and over.  One hard plastic swing was anchored in place by a vine that braided itself delicately along the length of the chain.   Year by year, each element became more firmly rooted, more tightly entwined. 

The vines might have held the swing set up for decades to come, had not a nearby giant tulip poplar been tossed onto the slide during a lightning storm.  While one side is crumpled like a broken toy, the other still stands, held fast in the candy cane clasp of a massive wisteria vine.  The glider is locked in place, as well, vine-trapped.  Vinca, ivy, Virginia creeper and mahonia flourish along the ground.  Unchecked plant growth closes in from every direction.  Going on right now, and for the forseeable future, at least, it’s a wild foliage riot in the way, way back.  In the midst of it all, my old swing set remains, ever more adorned, yet ever more fragile, a monument to simultaneous decay and growth.  A monument to life, and its circle. 

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The state of the swing set, June 2013.
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The crumpled slide, embraced by foliage.

 

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Way back when it was almost new: on the swing set at my grandparents’ place, 1967.